Mongolia

The heavenly beauty of the Altai Mountains seduces all those that dare explore it. Lying on the boundary between North and Central Asia, it is divided by four countries; Russia, China, Mongolia and Kazakhstan. A seemingly mystical land, its vast terrain encompasses jagged snow-capped mountains, huge lakes, valleys and grassy steppes. Formed over 500 million years ago and shaped by eons of wind, rain and ice, it presents a hostile deadly landscape.

Yet it is here that the Kazakh people roam. A fiercely proud and warm hearted tribe, they have harnessed even the cruelest of conditions and made this their land. Their home.  Skilled horsemen they sit adorned in fox furs and heavily embroidered coats.  Another figure not human, towers silently by their side.

Living a nomadic existence since the 19th Century, the Kazakhs have tamed and trained one of the planets deadliest raptures, the Golden Eagle.  The Berkutchi (the name given to the Kazakh hunters)  who use the “Kings of the Sky” have lived in equilibrium with the Golden Eagle population for as long as falconry can be traced back. It was said that Genghis Khan had 5,000 Golden Eagles in his private army. Golden Eagles, trained correctly are capable of hunting down and maiming even wolves. The method of training is a closely guarded secret. It is a life profession that requires extreme discipline. Because of this the Berkutchi are held in high esteem and are thought to possess spiritual powers. Indeed to witness the relationship between man and eagle leaves most captivated. It is a primal relationship so extraordinary, so ancient and so deeply woven between the two creatures. The Eagle is never the slave to its master. Rather it becomes a loyal hunting partner, treated outside the hunt as a much loved and treasured member of the family.

Equally as skilful are the Kazakh women who create intricate textiles for the beers that are based on ancient Islamic art arabesque. The Liaoning Cashmere goat that every family has a precious herd of, has survived for thousands of years in these cold windswept conditions where a valuable under wool is produced. It is combed expertly and with care each spring by the nomadic herders.

This harmonious existence between man and his environment has tragically come under threat. The wisdom passed on through generations is in danger of being eradicated forever.  In 1991, when Kazakhstan declared itself an independent country, with the collapse of the Soviet Union, newly elected Prime Minister, Nursultan Nazarbayev created financial incentives for the Kazakhs to return to their homeland. Many had previously fled the harsh communist Soviet regime, Stalin’s purges and China’s’ Cultural Revolution. Finding refuge in the remote mountains and valleys of Western Mongolia. However what they returned too was a more modernist way of life. Globalisation and the influence of Western culture do not sit right with the Kazakh way. The Kazakhs found themselves displaced. More in no man’s land than ever.

The huge success and fascination of Beshlie Mckelvie exhibition where it opened in London at The Muse Gallery  in December 2012 has gone on to be shown at Asia House, Storie in Paris , Geneva and last showing in France at the Musee du feutre.

Read more about Beshlie’s Mongolia, here.

Mongolia